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Twirple

Twirple

            The little boy paused briefly at the rim of the ravine before walking down its slope.  He wore a neat button-up shirt and flannel lined blue dungarees, rolled up at the bottom. His hair had been combed that morning and he carried a Howdy Doody lunch box. The path he walked was how most kids who lived southeast of the elementary school walk to and home from the school.  He didn’t notice the other boy until he heard, “Halt, who goes there?”  The other boy was older and taller.  His neck and arms were slender, his hair shaggy and his clothes were old and kind of dirty.

            “It’s me, Timmy Mathewson”, said the little boy. “Who are you?”

            “I am Twirple, Troll of the Ravine.”  The older boy had no idea where the name Twirple came from.  It just popped into his head.  “You must pay me if you want to walk on the path through my ravine.”

            “But I don’t have any money”, said the little boy.

            “Do you have anything in your lunch box”, asked Twirple.

            “I have some celery sticks, but I usually give them to Sarah Thompson’s rabbit before I get home.  My Mommy always puts them in my lunch even though I tell her I don’t like them.”

            “Well, you seem like a pretty nice boy, so I guess they’ll have to do for today.  But, my usual fare is half a sandwich”.  “Give me the celery sticks and don’t tell anybody you saw me.”

            “Why?”

            “Because I’ll know if you do and I can use my magic to make you sick. He paused briefly, looking at the little boy. “But, I won’t. I won’t have to.  Because if you tell people you saw a troll in the ravine, they’ll think you’re silly and they will treat you like a little boy.  They will stop listening to anything you say.”.

            “Really?” said the little boy.  “You don’t look like a troll to me.”

            “Well that’s probably because I just got my first troll assignment.  I’m a young troll – only 50 years old.  Beginners only get things like paths through ravines.”  Timmy began to grin.  “When I’m 300 years old, I’ll have long wild hair and big bushy eyebrows.  My nose will be huge and have a great big hairy wart on it.”  Timmy snickered.  When I’m old, I’ll be short and fat and walk around like this.”  He hunched over dangling his bowed arms in front of him and waddled a small circle on bowed legs.  Timmy laughed again.  “Why when I’m 300, I’ll be the King of the Trolls. I’ll live under the most important bridge in the world and have hundreds of great-great-great-great-grand children,” concluded with a flair.  Timmy looked at him with a big smile on his face.

            “Now give me the celery sticks and go on home.”

            The little boy opened his lunch box and gave the three small celery sticks to Twiple..  Then he picked up his things and began walking up the other side of the ravine. Near the top, he stopped and turned around.  “Will you be here tomorrow, Twirple?” he called back down to the boy.

“I might”.

The little boy smiled and said “Okay, see you tomorrow”, before turning back around and disappearing beyond the edge of the ravine.

The boy, Twirple, watched the spot where the little boy had vanished for a minute before he turned and headed down the ravine.

The ravine was part of an old creek bed, about twelve feet deep at the school path. The creek had been filled in and rerouted as the town grew, especially after the war.  A couple hundred yards upstream from the school path it ended abruptly with a retaining wall.  A few drainpipes emptied into the ravine between the retaining wall and where it became steeper on it’s run down to the river. 

About halfway between the path and where the slope changed, Twirple had established his Troll’s Lair.  There was a corner there defined by a bushy outcropping. A gully entered the ravine just beyond the turn.  The bottom was just about Twirple’s shoulder height above the floor of the ravine.  A small opening between shrubs led to the Lair.  It had been formed by rain runoff from a two-foot diameter drainpipe that entered on the right.  The drainage shadow created by a tree near the right side, preserved a narrow section of level ground that was perfect for a bedroom. The left side, opposite the bedroom, included a crude stairway that would facilitate an uphill escape, if it ever became necessary. 

Twirple had made some improvements since moving in a few days ago.  He’d cleaned the sticks and leaves out of the bedroom. Concerned about the gap in the entry wall, he’d uprooted a nearby bush to use as a gate.  In a niche just below the bedroom he assembled several good-sized throwing rocks and a sturdy staff for hand-to-hand combat.  And, though he didn’t think anyone would come looking for him anytime soon, he would always use loose brush to wipe out his footprints, just as he’d seen on TV westerns.  And, at least he didn’t have to worry about the school roof crashing down on him and his classmates as they hid under their desks when the Russians attacked.

Twirple knew he didn’t look like a troll.  He didn’t know exactly what a troll was supposed to be, but he felt like they started out being people like him.  But, he had his ravine and lair and maybe someday he would move up to living under a bridge. 

When Twirple surveyed his surroundings that afternoon after meeting the little boy, he thought it was a pretty darn good lair for a novice troll.  However, even a troll needs food, water and a comfortable bed.  He’d have to see what he could do about that.

 

The next day Twirple set out early on his logistics recon mission.  He’d figured before he fell asleep the night before that a place to poop and wash up a little was available in the bathroom of the Esso station up at the highway.  It was in the back and it always open because the lock was busted. It was also a source of water, though it would be nice to have a way to keep some back at the lair.

Bedding was another issue.  In the movies, cowboys always sleep on the ground when they’re out on the range, but Twirple didn’t have a blanket or a saddle to lay his head against.

Those things were important, but nothing mattered more than finding food.  Sharing lunch leftovers with the school kids on their way home in the afternoon was obviously not going to work.  Timmy was practically the only one who walked alone. Twirple didn’t want to deal with more than one kid at a time.

Having no other plan in mind, he headed out toward the town dump.  It was a Saturday so he didn’t have to worry about being picked up as a truant and who knew what he might find out there?  The dump was about two miles north of the ravine. He took the path toward the elementary school and then veered toward the river.  As he walked, Twirple thought about what he needed at the Lair – other than a source of food.  The thought of eating what the local vermin had rejected at the dump was out of the question.  Instead, he began to think of what would make his new home a more livable place.  He was pretty excited when he reached the dump. 

With the caution of a newly minted troll, Twirple scanned the old sandstone quarry from the woods that surrounded it.  As it was, he stood about as far as possible from the entrance where a couple of householders were unloading junk from the backs of their station wagons.  Being the oldest end of the dump, most of what was there was either covered with dirt or in an advanced stage of decay.  As he began to explore the dump in the open, Twirple came to understand that the only things really worth the effort of carrying back to the Lair had been dropped off in the last few weeks.  Determined to find some the things he needed, the boy eventually began looking through that day’s offerings.  When asked what he was looking for, he responded, “my homework”.

His first find was a BSA back pack with a missing strap buckle.  He pulled it out from under a TV with a smashed screen.  A simple knot would replace the buckle he thought.  Turning things over in that general area he came across a canteen.  Its bag and strap were sun rotted to uselessness, but with his new backpack that was no problem.  There was also a pocketknife that had lost its bone cover on one side.  The stream of useable goods dried up for a while until he noticed a package of thick short candles.  Near it there was as metal dish with three round indents the same size as the candles.  He set them in his pile.  Twirple found a pillow, but when he picked it up and smelled it, he threw it back.  

Twirple finally decided it was getting late and packed his booty into the new backpack.  As he began his walk back to the path he’d taken earlier in the day he noticed the corner of a blanket sticking out from under a bunch of wooden blocks.  He gave it a tug and eventually pulled out an old canvass tarp.  It was about four by eight feet and had a few holes around the edges.  But, would work perfectly as his bed.  He sniffed it to be sure and, other than faint scents of dirt and grass, it just smelled like canvass.

 

Twirple’s return trip to the castle seemed longer than his morning hike.  It wasn’t the weight of his booty or how tired he felt, but the thought that a whole day had been spent without addressing his most immediate problem – hunger.  It really didn’t matter how well he adapted to living on his own if he couldn’t feed himself.  Stealing corn or apples or other produce from local farms wouldn’t work now because it was Fall and everything had already been harvested.  

Not long after he’d left the woods, while walking through the north side neighborhood’s small business district, he saw a dollar bill on the sidewalk.  After looking around, he stooped to pick it up. It wasn’t a dollar bill.  In fact, it was a ten.  He quickly looked around again for anyone who might dispute his claim to good fortune.  After realizing that it was his alone, relief, hunger and joy tumbled over each other in his mind like a trio of just fed puppies.  He walked back past a couple of shops to where a bench sat outside a small hardware store.  There he argued with himself over whether to buy and immediately consume all of the things he’d loved best to eat in one glorious frenzy, or to use his windfall wisely and stock his pantry for the long haul.  In the end, he compromised.  The boy bought a small ice-cream cone at the drug store soda counter and spent the rest on a loaf of bread, some baloney, a few tins of sardines, apples and other things that would last for a while.

Back at his lair, Twirple surveyed the fruits of his day’s labor.  Beside the glorious groceries lay the tray and candles, his pocketknife and the backpack and canteen.  All was displayed on his second greatest find, the tarp. However,the best find of allwere the six comic books he’d discovered after beginning his homeward journey.  He had remembered to buy a little box of matches to light the candles.  With the tarp for warmth and a candle providing a little light as the day darkened, he came to the conclusion that this whole troll life was beginning to look pretty good.

 

Twirple continued his foraging, albeit with less urgency, given his newly improved circumstances.  And he also had to pretty much stay out of sight on school days.  Parts of those days were spent wandering the through the woods between town and the river.  More than once, sitting with his back against a tree just uphill from the riverbank, his daydreaming would drift back to the time before.  On those occasions he would wake up lying curled up at the trees base in a bed of leaves feeling – what?  Rested?  Safe?

No matter his day’s itinerary, Twirple would always return to his observation station behind the bushes by the turn in the ravine as school let out for the day. Here he’d watch the kids walking in groups of friends to their homes, to their moms and dads, to dinner and warm beds at night. However, he never left his post until the little boy, Timmy, came down the slope.  Then he’d leave his position, walk toward the path and call out “Halt, who goes there”? Timmy’s response was always a bright smile and an enthusiastic “Hi, Twirple.”  He would ask how Twirple’s day was or tell him about something that excited him about his day at school.  On more than one occasion, Timmy asked Twirple if he’d like to come home to his house to play and stay for dinner.  One time he asked Twirple if he could come to his Lair.  “Oh no”, said the boy.  “Only trolls are allowed to enter a troll’s house”.  

“But can I come and just look at it from the outside?”

“No.”

“Well, I could follow you home and then I would be able to see it”, Timmy said.

“You couldn’t see it even if you did.  It’s invisible to normal peoples’ eyes.  You would never be able to find my troll home.”

Timmy gave up.  He opened his lunch box and gave Twirple half of peanut butter and jam sandwich – neatly wrapped in a paper napkin – and three small celery sticks.  Then, he said good-bye and headed home.

 

Timmy was always the last kid to walk the path home.  When Twirple finally asked him why, Timmy’s smile disappeared and he looked down at his feet.  After a minute or two he said, “My teacher lets me erase the blackboards and empty the waste baskets.  I help her clean up.”  Then he offered up his daily fare, said he had to go now and walked away without another word.

Twirple walked slowly back to his hideout.  Sitting on the tarp, he ate the half sandwich and considered his immediate future.  It was now nearly two weeks since he had become a troll.  His food was almost gone, the candles were all used up and the nights were getting longer and colder.  He decided to make a short visit to Mama’s house.  He knew that there were a couple of sleeping bags in the shed behind the garage and that he could use some more clothes.  He’d know if Chuck the Drummer was there because station wagon would be parked in the yard.  If Chuck were there, he would have to come back another time.  He’d time his visit for early afternoon.  Lately, Mama was often asleep on the couch around that time of day.

Twirple had trouble falling asleep that night.  He was cold and hungry curled up in the tarp and more and more lately he had been doubting his ability to live on his own.  He tried thinking of the time before, like he had down by the river, but memories of learning about the crash and visions of time after Chuck the Drummer had entered his and Mama’s life kept interfering.

The next day he woke up early.  It was still pretty dark in the Manor, the ravine being low down and surrounded by trees. Despite his efforts not to, Twirple shivered with the cold.  He really had to pee, and so he got up, removed the Castle gate – now just a collection of dry twigs – and let fly down into the ravine.  Relieved, and refreshed by a new day, he dove into the tarp and pulled it over his head.  The thoughts of going to his heretofore home, of getting some other clothes and who knew what else and of seeing Mama buoyed him.  Eventually he drifted back to sleep.  When he woke again and looked out from beneath the tarp, the sun was already between the rim of the ravine and the tops of the trees. 

It was only a little more than two miles to Mama’s house, though the route wound through a neighborhood and a small industrial district that thinned into the occasional outlying business. Mama’s driveway, barely noticeable between two large trees, was just a couple of narrow strips of dirt that led to a cleared opening not far from the road.  The boy stopped in the shadows of the trees, looking and listening for any reason not to go on.

Though it had been only two weeks, the sight before the boy shocked him.  It wasn’t that the scene had changed so much as it was that, since his time away, his memory had reverted to the times before the crash. The small wood sided house and the cleared area around it looked uncared for.  The light gray roof shingles were chipped and covered with black spots and some of them were missing.  The outside of the house was dirty and looked like it needed painting.  But, worse was the condition of the yard.  Mama had planted and cared for flowering shrubs around the base of the house and Dad kept up a nice lawn in the front.  Now it was dead and dried out, only the hardiest of weeds showing green.  But the saddest thing of all was Mama’s vegetable garden off to the right where it would get the most sun.  It was now just a collection of scrabbly weeds. 

Chuck the Drummer’s car was not on the lawn and there were no sounds at all except for the occasional car back on the road.  The boy made his way around the house to the storage shed behind.  The door was ajar and the interior looked as it did when he last saw it.  The garden and lawn care tools hung where they had always been near the door. Farther back, were the shelves of camping gear, Christmas decorations, and what Dad used to call “the what not”. To the boy, this encounter with the time before was too much.  He grabbed the one remaining sleeping bag and stepped outside.

The need for warmer clothing and wanting to see if Mama was around and doing okay checked his impulse to run from the ruins of his previous life.  He walked back around the house and entered it through the front door, leaving the sleeping bag on the porch.

The house was musty and smelled of cigarette smoke.  Mama wasn’t in the kitchen to the right of the entry.  It was mess, with a sink full of dirty dishes, a cold pot full of something on the stove with flies buzzing around it and some kind of mess on the floor.  Rather than walk on into the living room, the boy turned left and walked toward his bedroom. First came JR’s room, unchanged since the crash except for the dust, spider webs and the dirty windows.  His own room was pretty much the same as when he’d left.  As quickly as he could, the boy stripped off the clothes he’d been wearing for the last two weeks and changed into new underwear and socks, jeans and a long sleeve flannel shirt.  He grabbed extra underwear and socks and a jacket and, on his way out the door, the pillow off his bed.

After piling the things he had gathered on the porch and deciding to put it all into the sleeping bag to carry back to the lair, the boy paused.  Mama might be asleep in the house.  The thought overwhelmed him.  As changed as she was, she was his only living connection to the time before.  It took him a while to reenter what had always been his home.  She wasn’t in what had been her and Dad’s bedroom. Returning to the entry, he walked into the living room.  There she lay on the couch.

Her legs were curled into a fetal position, her head lay on a throw pillow and her arms reached out to the nearby coffee table.  The noontime sun lit up the room through the big window opposite the couch.  The boy stood in absolute silence in a room that smelled of rot and mildew.  There lay his Mama, the most important person in his life.  He looked at her for a while and then walked across the room thinking to wake her. When he kissed her cheek, it was cold and dewy.  Shocked, he drew back and then noticed that her eyes were only half shut.  They seemed to be staring at something on the coffee table.  There he saw a syringe, a teaspoon and a candle that had burned out.  The boy looked at the unseeing eyes, at the eroded figure lying there who had been his mother and, stepping back, at the wreck of a house that had once been his family’s home.

The boy returned to his hideout in the gully intersecting the ravine.  Though the sun had yet to set, he laid out the sleeping bag on the tarp, placed the pillow at the head and the extra clothing down in the foot, climbed in and pulled the upper half of the tarp over all to shut out the world.  Dark. Silent.  Numb.  Empty. And, alone. 

 

The sun was well up by the time the boy crawled out of his cocoon.  The weather had changed and he was glad he’d remembered to grab his jacket.  After walking around the ravine for a while, both above and below the crossing path, he retired again to his improved bed.  Though he hadn’t had much to eat in the last three days, he was not hungry. 

As he lay there, he thought about Mama and the times before.  She seemed so much younger in his memory of those times.  He pictured her in their kitchen talking a mile a minute to Dad after he had come home from work.  She’d tell him about her day and ask him about his.  She’d pass on anything JR or the boy had told her and about what she may have heard on the radio that day.  And all while bouncing around the kitchen getting dinner together in what looked like a perfectly choreographed dance.  Sometimes dad would sneak up on her and grab her around the waist.  She would squeal with laughter and run around the dining area with him in pursuit.  That part of the dance always ended with an embrace and a kiss.

The boy thought also of just how much Mama loved growing things.  She had a wide brimmed straw hat she would wear when planting or trimming the boarder bushes and flowers or working in her vegetable garden. Many were the times when he and JR would walk down the driveway from where the school bus had dropped them off and find mama out in the vegetable garden weeding or watering or gathering something for dinner.

He also thought of her singing.  She would sing quietly to herself while occupied or suddenly burst out with a song that applied to what someone had just said.  He fell asleep remembering how she would quietly sing to him sitting on his bed while saying goodnight.

The boy awoke suddenly from his nap, hungry and scared.  He couldn’t remember his dream – only that it made him want to hide. He sat up and looked out on the early afternoon.  It was cold. Staying within the sleeping bag he wriggled himself into a sitting position against the sidewall of his sleeping area.  There the source of his unease gelled from fog of sleep.  It was Chuck the Drummer.  He had been there one morning when the boy got up.  Wandering out of Mama and Dad’s bedroom in his boxers and tee shirt, he said, “Hey there, sport.”  To the boy’s “Who are you”, he responded, “I’m Chuck, the new man around here.”  

After the crash, Mama changed.  She no longer laughed or sang.  She lost interest in her garden.  One night the boy heard her crying after they had gone to bed.  He got up and climbed into bed with her.  She clung on to him and cried until she fell asleep.  It became their routine on her bad nights.  And then Chuck entered their lives.

He was a member of a jazz quartet that played locally and in nearby towns. Sometimes they would go on the road to places farther away.  When he was working locally, he would come back to the house late at night. Sometimes the boy would wake up and hear Mama and him talking or, sometimes, just grunting.  When Chuck wasn’t working, he would hang around the house all day, mostly watching television.  He smoked cigarettes and soon Mama did too.  Sometimes he would make his own cigarettes and share them with her.

Then he was off work for a long time.  He and Mama smoked more of his homemade cigarettes and started drinking “hooch”. After a while, Chuck became churlish. He would complain and criticize Mama. Often the boy would hear them arguing. One morning Mama’s cheek and nose were red and swollen.  Another time she spent the day in bed because her side hurt.

Not long after that, on a Saturday morning, Mama came out to the kitchen in the morning to cook breakfast with a half shut eye surrounded by a dark blue ring. When Chuck came out to join her and the boy after they had finished their breakfast, he asked her if there were any cigarettes around.  There weren’t.  Would she get in the kitchen and fry him a couple of eggs.  There weren’t any.  Would she at least find him something to drink?  There wasn’t anything.  He started yelling bad words and calling Mama names.  He came at her with is arm in the air.  The boy rushed to get between them and tried to push Chuck away.  Outraged, the man slapped the boy’s face and kicked him on the side of his thigh.  He pushed the boy to the floor and moved toward him with rage in his eyes.  The boy jumped up and ran to the door, opened it and took off.  As he sprinted toward the driveway he heard “Don’t you ever come back” come from behind him.

 

Those memories drove the boy from his lair.  He went to his lookout post, though it was later than when he usually arrived and only a few small groups of school kids crossed the ravine.  The sun was already well below the tops of the trees when he saw a little boy stumbling down the path as quickly as he could. His shirt was partially untucked from his trousers, there were stains at the knees of his pants, he was crying and, at the bottom of the ravine, he tripped and fell.  It was Timmy.  Before he could recover, his three pursuers were upon him.

Twirple launched himself from the blind and ran at the biggest of the bullies. The force of their collision lifted the kid off the ground.  One of the other bullies grabbed Twirple from behind.  The third socked him next to his left eye as hard as he could.  The clout hurt the kid’s hand and he stepped back.  Twirple kicked at him.  Though aiming for his crotch, the boy’s foot caught the bully’s leg just below the knee. A sickening popping sound was followed by the kid’s cry of pain.  He turned and limped away in retreat.

Twirple then raised his leg again and kicked backward with all the force he could muster.  Striking just above his captor’s right knee, the boy broke free of his grip.  He too fell away and when Twirple turned around, limped off in retreat.  He then turned just in time to see the first bully rushing toward him.  Twirple stepped back and tripped the kid as he passed. With predatory quickness he landed in a sitting position on the kid’s chest, pinning his arms down. Twirple’s hands were instantly on the bully’s throat, his thumbs squeezing hard.  Terror showed in the kid’s eyes as he struggled to breathe.  Twirple stared back into them hating him for the crash, for Chuck and his Mama and for their attacking Timmy.  But he knew the kid had really only done one of those things. He leaned close to the bully’s face and said, “Don’t you ever be mean to Timmy again.” 

The boy let go and the kid joined the other two who were limping up the grade back toward the school.  He turned around and looked at Timmy.  He picked up Timmy’s lunch box and a book and after handing them back to him and tucking his shirt back into his pants, told him to go home.

As Timmy was about to reach the top, he was stopped by a loud cry that echoed up and down the ravine.  It could have been the screech an animal or the lament ghost, but Timmy knew it was Twirple. As the cry faded he turned to look at the boy standing in the middle of the path.  His face was buried in his hands and his whole body shook with his sobbing.

 

The next day Twirple did not show up in the ravine.  The little boy waited for a while before continuing his walk home. It was Friday and it began to rain just as Timmy reached his house.  For the rest of the afternoon and evening he kept looking out the windows at the weather. His Mom notices his unease and asked what concerned him.

“Twirple.”

“The ravine troll?”

Timmy turned and looked at his mother.  “He’s a boy, Mom.  There’s no such thing as trolls.”

“Well I’m sure he must live near by and is home with his mother and father.”

Timmy looked at her but said nothing.  Later, when his mother came in to kiss him goodnight, he said to her “Twirple is in trouble”.

  It continued to rain through the night and in the morning, while Timmy ate his breakfast, his father, Peter, noted that the temperature outside had dropped.  Afterwards, he did his morning chores, watched a Saturday morning cartoon, dabbled with the puzzle he and Mom were working on together and tried to read his book.  Nothing, it seemed, could divert his attention from what was going on outside.

His mother met him at the front door.  He had put on his galoshes and yellow raincoat with a hood.  “Where are you going?” she asked.  

“Mom, Twirple is in trouble.  I know it. I’m going to find him.”

“Sweetheart, I sure he is okay,” she said.”

“How? You don’t know anything about him. He could . . .”

“I’ll go with him,” said Timmy’s dad, who had quietly walked up behind his mom.

Timmy’s dad pulled on his galoshes sitting on the stairs and, while he was putting on his raincoat, Timmy’s mom called from the kitchen that John would meet them at the school.

John the Policeman was a friend of Timmy’s mom and dad from their high school days. When he, Timmy and his dad neared the center of the ravine, they found a small stream of rainwater runoff.  Timmy pointed downstream and they headed off in that direction.  They soon reached the small promontory on the right side where the ravine turned. Timmy and his dad continued on for several yards to where the descent toward the river began when they heard John shout, “Hey, look at this”.

When they reached him, he was looking up the bank to where a gully entered the ravine. “I’m going up to take a look,” he said. He grabbed hold of a bush above and pulled himself up and into the gully.  Timmy and his dad hadn’t seen or heard from John for a minute or two when a loud “Holy crap”, filled the air.

“Pete”, he yelled, “Come the base of the wall.” 

Half a minute later he showed up at the edge of the gully carrying an unconscious child.  He carefully handed it down to Timmy’s dad and then slid down to the ravine floor. “He was in the drainpipe.  He’s burning up with fever,” John said. “We’ve got to get him to the hospital right away.”  John took the boy and Timmy’s Dad picked him up and together they all rushed back toward the cars at the school.

 

                                                                                                                        

 

            When I woke up I was in a bed.  The room was mostly dark.  A little light came through the slightly ajar door.  The bed had a pillow and sheets and a blanket that were tucked tightly around me.  They were clean.  And warm too.

            My right shoulder and upper arm were encased in a cast that also extended around my chest.  A large bandage covered the left side of my head and my left eye. Every part of me ached and seemed hot, though I shivered.  Breathing was hard and hurt.  It felt like my lungs were full of fog.  I drifted back toward sleep.

            Where was I?  Probably in the hospital.  Who was I? A boy.  What was I?  A boy who had lost his Mama.  Who had lost his Dad and his older brother, JR.  Who had lost his home.  As I named each loss, it seemed as though some part of my body disappeared.  In the end I felt I was just a head, arms and legs connected to an empty shell – like one of those plastic baby dolls.  I couldn’t understand how someone could live if they were empty. I started to cry.

            “Twirple?”

            I wasn’t sure I had really heard the word.

            “Twirple?” Timmy said again and then he was out the door and down the hall before I could answer.

            Almost immediately, Sarah the Night Nurse followed Timmy into the room and turned on the overhead light.  “Hello there, young man”, she said cheerfully.  “Nice to see you awake.”  She then took my temperature, listened to my chest with her stethoscope, poked me at various points and asked how it felt.  After adding a few notes to a clipboard at the end of the bed, she began to adjust things around the room and bed that obviously hadn’t moved since the last nurse had done it. 

            She turned off the overhead light when she left and Timmy settled back into the chair near the end of the bed.  I fell back into a semiconscious state almost immediately.  I remember the door opening and a couple of adults entering the room.  They didn’t turn on the light and spoke in low voices. I remember when one of them picked up Timmy and they all walked out of the room.

            I eventually learned that the collision with that bully caused a small crack just below the head of my humerus and another in my scapula.  The cut on the side of my head had become infected.  And, I had a serious case of pneumonia.  It took three months for the cast to come off.  Afterward, afterward I had to be careful when reaching for something above head height so as to not trigger a stabbing pain.  Thus ended my dreams of pitching for the New York Yankees. The scar from the cut on the side of my face is barely visible now.

            Timmy would come for short visits in the late afternoons.  His mother, a tall woman with dark hair and a kind face, would leave him at the door and come back to pick him up after fifteen minutes.  Meanwhile, Timmy would talk about his day in his quiet voice.   

On the third or fourth morning, John walked into the room.  He said, “Hi, son”, and introduced himself.  Son was what he called all boys.  After pulling the chair over and sitting down next to the bed, he said, “Son, we stopped by your mother’s house.  She’s pretty sick now, but I think she’s going to be okay. She was taken to a different hospital.” Learning that my Mama was alive really shocked me.  I really wanted to see her and barely registered John’s, “I’m afraid she is going to be there for a long time.  As for you, we’re working on finding a family for you to live with while she’s away.”  He put his hand on my forearm and gave a little squeeze, said he’d be back to visit again soon and left.  I later learned that Charles “Chuck” McConnell was arrested on drug charges and ended up spending time in prison.

After lunch the next day, he returned along with Timmy’s mom.  She came to the side of the bed and said, “Hello, Twirple. I’m Ruth Mathewson, Timmy’s mother. While your mother is recovering you will need a place to live.  Timmy and I and Mr. Mathewson were hoping you would come and live with us.”

 

The Mathewsons lived in a big house in a subdivision in the southeast part of town. It had a covered porch in the front and when you walked into the front door, there were stairs that led to the second floor.  I shared a room with Timmy, each of us sleeping in a single bed with a table between them and a lamp on the table.  It turned out that Timmy liked to read, as did I.  Our bedtime ritual was pajamas, tooth brushing and reading until Timmy’s mom would come in, kiss each of us on the forehead and turn off the light. Occasionally, his dad would turn off the light and then sit on the corner of Timmy’s bed and tell a story. He was really good at making up stories – mostly adventure stories about kids.

It was a little strange at first, but the Mathewsons did their best to make it seem I’d always been there.  I was assigned chores and expected to abide by the daily regimen of breakfast, school, afternoon snack, doing homework, helping with dinner and the dishes, TV time and bedtime.  Catching up on what I’d missed in school was not hard and my fear of being held back soon dissipated.  Mrs. Mathewson had bought me new clothes, including a suit for Sundays.  On Sundays, I would go to Sunday School with Timmy and then we would join his parents for the church service. Afterward came Sunday dinner, often attended by friends of the Mathewsons, including John, whom Timmy and I had taken to calling Uncle John.

A few weeks after I had moved in, while asking a question, I addressed Mrs. Mathewson as “Mom”, just as Timmy always did.  She was quiet for a few seconds and then knelt down in front of me like she did with Timmy when she had something important to say.  She told me that she and Mr. Mathewson couldn’t have children of their own and that Timmy was adopted.  She said that he calls her mom because he doesn’t have one of his own. “But you do.  And some day she will be coming back to you,“ she said. “Please call me Mrs. Mathewson or Ruth, but save mom for your mother.”  Calling a grownup by her first name was strange but I preferred it to the alternative and eventually got used to it. 

Living with the Mathewsons was nice.  I felt welcomed and safe and . . well . . loved.  But I had felt that way before.  I had had a mother and a father and an older brother.  Before the crash.  There were times, mostly after the lights were turned out at bedtime, that memories of those days seemed wash over me.  Remembering things about the days before would usually make me happy at first.  But they also made me sad.  Sometimes I would share my memories with Timmy.  One night I started talking about JR.  I told him how he always helped me with things like fixing my bike or putting a worm on a fishing hook.  When I was younger, he would read to me and when we wrestled, sometimes he’d let me win.  He helped me learn to throw and catch and hit a baseball.  When we would fight and be mad at each other, he would come up to me some time later and just extend his hand for me to shake.  The last time we fought, I was the one to extend my hand.

“And then one day when they were driving back from a Boy Scout campout, another car didn’t stop at a red light and crashed into theirs,” I said.  After a while, I said, “I really miss him.”  I thought Timmy had fallen asleep and lay there with tears in my eyes. After a minute or so, Timmy softly said, “Now you’re my big brother.”  

 

Ruth was right.  My Mother did come back.  The hospital she had been sent to was the medical wing of the county correctional facility.  After her rehabilitation, she spent most of a year in jail for drug use.

Mama came back but she was not the same.  She was very quiet, reticent and almost always seemed be apologizing for living. She asked the Mathewsons if it would be okay for me to stay with them until she got back on her feet.  She moved into a one-bedroom apartment and took a job as a waitress in a local restaurant.  A couple of times a month, Mama would come to Sunday dinner.  She’d arrive in time to help get the dinner on the table and would help clean up afterwards.  During dinner she was mostly quiet, only contributing to the conversation when directly addressed.  Afterward, she and I would sit together for a while and visit, sharing what we had been doing for the last week or two.  Some times on weekends, she would take me to a movie or out for ice cream.  Those times were the best, especially if she laughed.

We never talked about the time before.  Nor did she get back on her feet well enough for me to move in with her. She and her landlady became friends and Mama eventually joined her church.  And then, a little more than five years after she went away to jail, Mama got really sick.  She died in the hospital after just a week.

Her funeral was held in a chapel of the mortuary.  The Mathewsons and Uncle John came, as did her landlady and friends from church.  Her pastor led the service and some of her friends talked about what a nice person Mama had been.  I spent a long time looking at her in the casket.  I wanted to see the woman I knew in the time before.  I wanted to feel that Mama was at rest.  All I saw was the remains of a tired defeated woman whom the funeral parlor employees had done their best to make look pretty.

 

Soon after the funeral, Mr. Mathewson came and sat down next to me while I was doing my homework.  He told me that he and Ruth wanted to adopt me and asked me what I thought of that. I said that I would like it very much. One evening after the adoption was all settled, I walked into the living room where Ruth was working on her stitchery. She would make pictures, only instead of using paints and a brush she used a needle and different colored thread. Nervously, I asked, “Mom, can I go to the football game with Mark Lucas and his folks on Friday night?  His brother is on the team.”  Without looking up from her work, she said, “Yes, dear. That will be fine.”  From then on, Ruth was Mom.

I didn’t go out for sports that involved throwing or physical contact, but I did make the track team.  The mile was my best event.  I even made it to the regionals one year.  Tim, on the other hand, was a three-sport letterman.  Unlike the Mathewsons, he wasn’t tall.  What he lacked in height, though, he made up in strength, determination, agility and quickness.  He was an all-league running back, a point guard on the basketball team and made all state as the shortstop on the baseball team.  When I was in college, on a good day I could hitchhike home in around two hours.  I often left early on Friday afternoons so I could catch one of Tim’s games when I got home.

I teach English and Advanced Composition now at the High School and am thinking of starting up a creative writing club.  Tim is out on the west coast finishing up his residency in pediatrics. We write to each other at least once a month.  Toward the end of the letter I received today he mentioned that Judy was pregnant.  He said that if it was a boy, they were going to name him Twirple.

 

I would like to acknowledge all the help I received from the following people: Connie, our daughter, Megan, my sister, Sharon and my friends Arvid Hoppas, Carol Hayward Passar and Kris Valancia.

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Wednesday, 27 – Venice/California (not Venice, Calif.)

You can go east to west in one day.  Door to door, 18 ½ hours, including the longest (11 hrs.) flight I can remember.  It was good to get home.  The dogs were beside themselves with joy.  Meghan’s brother, Patrick, and his girlfriend, Alena were here and Meghan and Pete came by and made us dinner.  Emilia had had 7 vaccinations that day and was really out of it.  She kept staring at us as if trying to figure who we were and where we came from.  But then she smiled.

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Tuesday, 26 – Venice

The cold Connie announced she had yesterday had gone from a tropical storm to a category 3 hurricane overnight.  A lot of walking wasn’t in our immediate future.  For our trip to the airport tomorrow, we planned to take the Vaporetto to the train station and a bus from there.  We thought we’d rehearse the first leg to time it and locate the bus service.  As soon as we’d bought our day passes, a different kind of boat tied up to the Vaporetto dock.  Called the Alilaguna, it was lower and narrower.  Turns out it is a regularly scheduled airport shuttle.  The boats were more suited to fast travel over the lagoon to the airport than the clunky Vaporetti. 

We carried out our rehearsal anyway.  Given what we’d heard about the shuttle it turned out that plan A was usurped.  Since Connie felt so crappy, we decided to just ride the waterbus for a while.  It was a local and stopped at most of the docks along the Grand Canal.  Its final destination was Lido, an island separated from Venice by about 10 minutes of water.  We got off at the next to last stop before Lido.

That end of the island, when viewed from the water, has always seemed to be big, lush park.  And, we weren’t disabused of that notion immediately.  Rather than turn toward the park entrance, we turned toward town in search of a café.  Right there.  It was in what had been a large greenhouse and was very nice.  We sat indoors, had dopio café lattes and the best muffins we’ve ever had and that fixed us up just right.

We headed toward the park entrance and noticed that there was town behind the thick veneer trees and soon we came upon a ticket booth.  Behind it was more than a park – it included a cultural center.  Not for us so we went back to the canal boardwalk and enjoyed the trees along it as we headed toward the end of that island.  But, Connie’s cold and three weeks on the run had taken its toll and after a short rest on a bench, we caught the Vaporetto back to town.  The time that we spent out there was nice because it was away from the crowds and noise.

We got off at San Marco Square and walked the most direct route back to our hotel and then on to our new favorite restaurant for lunch.  It was great again, though not as crowded.  An hour of beyond the call of duty shopping did us in for the count and we retired to our room exhausted.  Tomorrow we’d be going home.

By the way, the reason Saint Mark’s Basilica is in Venice is that the Venetians, at the height of their power, went to Alexandria and ripped off his remains.  He had been the Bishop of Alexandria and now he’s a tourist attraction in Venice.

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Monday, 25 – Venice

We really didn’t have a plan for Venice.  We’d seen the most popular attractions and didn’t need to see them again.  We did want to go to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and with not much more in mind we headed off for the Academia Bridge.  Once on that side of the Grand Canal, we wandered in the direction of the museum.  It turned out that the line to get tickets was long.  Since we weren’t in the mood to wait, we decided we’d come early tomorrow and kept walking toward the end of the island.  The last building at the point is the large, former tariff building from Venice’s hay day.  Directly across from San Marco Square, it is a great place for a panoramic view of that end of the city.

We decided to walk back along the GiudeccaCanal, less interesting, but certainly not as crowded with visitors.  We were vaguely searching for a gondola maintenance shop we’d stumbled upon on another amble and eventually cut back into the city.  Soon we came out into a square I recognized immediately.  This is the place that gave the world the word “ghetto”.  In the old days, most of the Jewish population lived on Giudecca Island and around Campo San Agnese where there were and still are two synagogues.  But one side of the square was bordered by iron wright shops.  The word ghetto means foundry in Italian.

While stopped for a rest and some coffee, we looked through some of our information and learned that the Guggenheim would be closed on Tuesday.  We hurried back and lucked out.  No line.  The museum is in Peggy’s old house and most of the contents were part of her personal collection.  But being in a house, some of the rooms – including a hallway – just don’t work well for displaying paintings.  That being said, Connie and I agree that it is the best collection of early and middle twentieth century for any museum of that size.

By the time we were done we were tired and decided to walk back to the restaurant we liked for an early dinner.  Turned out it was crowded with 3 couples waiting out in the street (alley, really), so we just went back to our hotel.  After some rest up time, we ate a nice meal at the restaurant closest to our hotel and then went back in for the night.

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Sunday, 24 – Florence/Venice

Though we’d requested a 10:30 train, the ticket agent wrote down 11:30 and we didn’t discover it until it was too late.  After breakfast we finished packing and sat for a while working on the blog.  It took a couple of hours to complete our trip from the west to the east coast of Italy.  I wrote a little more and looked out the window at a dramatically gray landscape in the rain.  By the time we reached the Venice train station the rain had become an on again, off again drizzle. 

Venice’s bus system is called the Vaporetto.  These boats ply the waters around Venice along the two big canals and to and from the other major islands, picking up and dropping off passengers at designated stops.  Our hotel was closest to the Rialto Bridge stop so we hopped on the 2 outside of the train station and got off at the bridge.  We managed to find our hotel without too many missteps – a feat in Venice.  Our room was really nice, though on the third floor in a hotel without an elevator.  When I huffed and puffed to the landing before the last flight to our level, the young lady cleaning the rooms dashed down and hauled it the rest of the way up, crushing my male ego for about a nanosecond.  50 steps, counting the 7 landings on the winding way up.

After settling in, we hung out for a while before going out in search of a late lunch/early dinner.  The woman at the desk recommended a place not far away.  It turned out to be one of our favorite meal experiences.  A couple with a small child were waiting in the street ahead of us and a waiter came out and gave us all a refreshing drink.  They seated us in true Italian style – that is several tables for two set rows tight next to each other.  The small room was packed, the atmosphere friendly and the food excellent.  The wait staff ratio insured not only prompt service but also a little time for banter with the diners.  And, the owner (chef?) would come out to talk to the patrons.  At the end of our meals, the waiter would bring small glasses of grappa and a little dessert.  We decided we’d eat there again.

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Saturday, 23 – Florence

Our first stop was the Accademia where Michelangelo’s David is on display.  There is a copy on display outside the Uffizi, but this is the real thing and the main draw to the museum.  It is pretty impressive, like looking at the Mona Lisa or Sistine Chapel ceiling.  There were other nice pieces of sculpture as well, but one of the coolest things was blocks of marble that he had started work on but never finished.  Connie and I talked about how hard it is for us to imagine carving something so beautiful out of a big chunk of stone.  With the unfinished pieces, you can see how the process begins.  Another interesting display was in a room dedicated to plaster casts.  Apparently, the first step is to create a rough version of the final piece out of plaster.  This involves creating several molds of parts of the final piece and combining them into a model.  There were several examples of the finished models on display – some of them quite intricate.  There was a video showing how the process works.

After a break for coffee and a snack, we headed down toward the Bargello Museum.  On the way, we passed by the Duomo, Florence’s famous cathedral.  Started in 1296, the builders left a huge hole in the roof for the dome that they couldn’t build.  They knew, however, that some day someone would complete their dream of a crowning dome for their magnificent church.  That person turned out to be Filippo Brunelleschi, who in the 1400s built the largest dome in Europe since the Pantheon in Rome, which he had studied.  The original builders also didn’t add a façade to the church and for most of its life the exterior walls were just rough brick.  That’s hard to imagine given the beautiful Neo-Gothic exterior of black and white marble that adorns the church today.  That change was completed in 1870, just in time to celebrate the newly united Italy.

The Bargello Museum is housed in a large building that was once a police station and prison.  You enter into the great central courtyard with a long stone staircase leading to a balcony all around.  Second floors here are always at least 20 feet above the ground floor.  There were some sculptures on the ground floor and the balcony, but the real goods were inside.  The main attraction here was Donatello and especially his David.  Apparently, everybody who was anybody did a David.  However, nearly all Davids stand triumphantly with Goliath’s head at their feet.  Rick Steves – on whom I have relied heavily for background material – and others believe that Michelangelo showed David not at his moment of triumph, but rather as he’s facing his adversary – steady, confident and concentrating on what was to come.

We may not have given the Bargello its full due, being somewhat tour weary.  When we left, we headed over to Baldovino for a late lunch/early dinner.  This is the restaurant that Peter had recommended.  There was a street repair project going on close enough to the restaurant that its outside dining space was really constricted.  We slid in next to another couple who were just finishing their meal.  They turned out to be from Florida and we engaged in a conversation while they paid their bill.  They gave us the rest of their bottle of wine and she even offered the rest in her glass before we wished each other bon voyage.  When we saw minestrone on the menu we had to have it.  The San Francisco Bay Area has a large Italian descendant population and minestrone is big there.  Though good, it was nothing like what we make back home.  Meanwhile, a young Indian couple slipped in to where the other couple had been sitting.  We engaged them and it turned out that they live in Dublin, Ireland (not California).  They told us about how they met, got married and ended up taking jobs in the Irish IT sector.  Having these kinds of conversations is one of our favorite things about traveling.

Back at the hotel we discovered that I had not forgotten my phone in the morning, but had lost it somewhere along the way today.  Connie tried calling it and using Find my Phone, but with no luck.  I was really bummed.  After her third attempt at calling it, however, someone called back.  A woman who works at the Accademia had my phone.  Tired though we were, we trudged back to the museum and got my phone.  What a relief.

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Friday, 22 – Florence/Sienna

After breakfast at the hotel, we left for our day trip to Sienna.  I had wanted to go to Sienna since 1980 when I read Winds of War and War and Remembrance.  Once a year a religious festival is held that includes a horse race between the town’s clans that is held in the central square.  The square is large and not really square, with a depressed central area surrounded by a stone-paved road and the areas in front of the buildings.  For the race, the central area is fenced off and packed as densely as possible with spectators.  Likewise with the areas in front of the buildings as well as every window, balcony and rooftop.  The roadway, covered with a thick layer of sand, becomes the race course.  Members of each clan carrying religious icons and their clan’s flag escort the horses and riders into and around the arena, led by last year’s winner.  Videos of the race were playing on a TV where we had our lunch.

The Sienna train station faces a modern shopping mall across a small piazza.  To get to the town, you had to go through the mall.  Since there was no exit on the opposite side of the first floor, we took the escalator to the second floor and for the same reason went up to the third.  There we found a lobby that led to a long, steep escalator.  Which led to another.  And another.  Six in all before we got to the level of the old town.  Sienna was built as a citadel.  After getting our bearings, we (and several other people) walked off to find the central square.  For reasons I can’t figure out, the streets curved one way and the other and the contiguous buildings did as well (not uncommon for these old towns).  As a builder, all I could think of was how much harder it made framing and tiling the roofs.

When we got to the square, we grabbed a table near the edge of those grouped outside a café.  In the shade we sat and marveled at the scene, the beautiful day, imagined the festival and enjoyed people watching while we ate our lunch.  Connie had ravioli and I finally tasted pasta with wild boar – it was no big deal.  We ordered a bottle local 100% (white) Sauvignon and really liked it.  We lingered over the wine and then the coffee and when we finally got up realized we’d spent two hours having lunch.

We couldn’t remember the train schedule and so began looking for the Tourist Information station shown on the town map.  After a while with no success, we headed back to the train station.  At the top, I took an altitude reading with my phone and did so again at the bottom.  Those escalators saved us a climb of nearly 700 feet.  We walked through the station and out to the platforms just in time to see our train pull away slowly from platform number 3.  Oh well.  There would be another in an hour.

Back in Florence, we picked up some bread and cheese and a bottle of wine and dined out on our balcony.  That has become something we do more often later in a trip when we’re tired and don’t want to go out looking for a restaurant.  However, I don’t remember having a balcony to sit out on before.

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Thursday, 21 – Florence

We had breakfast in the hotel.  Breakfasts in Europe are probably the cause of the first twinges of homesickness.  All of Europe seems to live on some form of white bread – white bread, pasta, pastries, etc.  Our most common breakfast until we got here was a variation of the petit dejeuner, a pastry (usually a croissant), a glass of orange juice (almost always fresh squeezed) and a tiny cup of coffee.  Here in the hotel, the buffet offers some dishes more to American tastes: a strangely colored scrambled egg like substance, slightly warmed bacon and a slightly coffee flavored weak tea.  However, they also had yogurt, which has been hard to find over here.

After breakfast we did our laundry at a place between the hotel and the train station.  During the wash cycle, we went to the station to buy Firenze cards (a pass at saves money and gets you into most of the city’s attractions without waiting in line), get first class tickets so we could avoid the hassle of our trip here and to buy tickets for our day trip to Sienna.  It was rush hour and the ticket area was mobbed.  We did get the Sienna tickets from a machine and learned that passes were available at the tourist information office across the street.  As for the ticket upgrades, we decided to try again when we returned from Sienna. 

Once our laundry was done and packed away, we headed out across town to the Galileo Science Museum, a small museum on the river next to the giant Uffizi.  This museum is loaded with all things mechanical from the scientific reawakening of the Renaissance to the earliest electricity generating devices to the earliest electric motors.  We spent a couple of hours there enthralled – so much that that night I spent wakeful hours figuring out valve activating hardware for a two sided steam piston and a way to capture and condense the exhaust steam.

After a break for coffee and a pastry, we walked down to and along the river for a while.  The pause and some walking braced us up for what lay ahead. 

We got in line for the Uffizi Museum with others who had reservations or Firenze Cards.  The beautiful building was built in the 1700s to house the great art, artifacts and scientific instruments of Florence.  It is home the finest collection of Italian Renaissance art in the world.  Connie and I love art museums.  However, Italian Renaissance is our least favorite kind of art.  Oh well.  Still we looked at hundreds of depictions of the Madonna with Child accompanied by various visitors, of the crucifixion and so on, all attended by saints, angles and cherubs.  We observed the progress from two-dimensional stick figures portrayed with inferior paints, through the Italians learning about perspective and eventually being able to paint women and children with some degree of accuracy and with decent paints. Meanwhile, the Dutch Masters had been doing exceptional representational painting for centuries.  But one thing I don’t get: central and southern Europeans are almost all darker skinned with dark hair and eyes.  Why would Mary and Jesus be depicted as having blond hair and blue eyes?

Still, we walked all 93 rooms.  The building itself is nice with long, window lit halls on its courtyard sides and ends.  These galleries held mostly statues and portraits of popes and famous Florentine citizens.

Afterward, we walked to where Peter had stayed for a month in 2002 while studying abroad.  We’d visited him for an afternoon then while on a cruise.  We also scoped out the Baldovino Restaurant nearby.  Peter said we’d have to eat there.

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Wednesday, 20 – Vernazza/Florence

After a farewell breakfast at the Pirate Café, we boarded our train for Florence.  Less that halfway there we had to change trains and learned that we had failed to get first class vouchers at the Vernazza station.  Not that big a deal, except that the entire new train seemed to be first class.  These have reserved, numbered seats.  We walked the length of the train looking for a coach car and finally got fed up at the last car and sat down.  If people got on with tickets for those seats, we’d just move to others of the several that were empty.  We made it to Florence without having to move, but I was a little stressed out by the whole situation.

Getting to our hotel was pretty easy.  It was only a few blocks from the station and on the way we passed a Laundromat (yup, that time again).  Hotel Croce di Malta is very nice and we were delighted to learn that our room had a small balcony with a table and two chairs. 

After getting settled, we wondered around the corner to the Piazza della Republic, a large square lined on one side with the canopied tables of cafés.  We were in the mood for pasta and I wanted to see how their pasta with clams compared to mine – though the wild boar pasta was tempting.

After our late lunch/early dinner, we walked down to the river and along it toward the Ponte Vecchio, crossing the river a bridge before to avoid some of the crowd.  The approach to and one side of the old bridge are lined with shops, nearly all of which sell jewelry (?).  Connie and I are not shoppers, though we have been looking for certain fabrics and ceramics without any success.  Once back on the city side of the bridge we meandered back to our hotel.  Florence is the first big city we’ve stayed in since Barcelona.  Though everywhere we’ve been has been crowded with tourists (like us), somehow it’s more overwhelming in cities.

We decided to stay in this hotel because Peter and Meghan came here on their honeymoon and raved about sunsets viewed from the rooftop terrace.  We went up to have a glass of wine and watch the sunset.  The view of Florence was great with the Duomo dome and all the campaniles dominating the skyline.  After watching the sun go down with a few of the other guests, we went back to our room and to bed.  We were tired and had a big day planned for tomorrow.

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Tuesday, 19 – Vernazza

We breakfasted again at the Pirate Café, taking advantage of their Wi-Fi to, among other things, see Emilia’s reaction to our video.   Then it was off to the train station to buy a couple of day passes. The local line serves Levanto in the north to Spezia in the south and all the Cinque Terre towns between.  Our plan was to go to the south having already explored Monterosso. 

Riomaggiore is the southern most of the 5 towns.  It is the largest village and, in Rick Steve’s words, the most workaday.  To get to the town from the train station, we walked through a long pedestrian tunnel decorated on one side with cleverly set pieces of broken tile, marble, stone and glass. 

Connie and I walked up the main street looking into shops and checking the café menus for anchovies.  Yesterday she had strained a tendon behind her left knee and descending stairs was painful for her.  When I suggested we take the high road back down, she declined and we said we’d meet at the bottom.  What I had taken as a relatively short higher road parallel to the main road farther down toward the harbor turned out to be much more.  At first it sloped down gently, but it was much longer, never neared the main street and eventually ended in a series of meandering, steep and narrow stairways (typical for these towns) that deposited me as far out on that side of the harbor that anyone could be.  Fortunately a path led me back to the base of the mainstreet where we met up.  Connie had actually walked the short upper road I thought I was setting out on.

One of the attractions of Cinque Terre is that you can walk between all of the villages.  When we were up on a terrace overlooking the sea, we could see a walkway that disappeared around the point to the north.  We got into a discussion with a few other tourists about whether or not you could walk the path to Manarola, the next town north.  Connie and I told them that we were pretty sure the path had been closed because of storm damage.  We had known that for some time, though we couldn’t remember where we learned it.  One gentleman suggested it was just the same kind of warning that we got yesterday, and the general decision was that the people would try to take the walk.  Well, it turned out that the path we saw was walkable, but only to the train on the other end of the pedestrian tunnel.  We walked back through it and, while waiting for our train, I walked up to a point where I could see the beginning of the path to Manarola.  There was definitely no getting over or around the gate.  The path is still closed.  I took a picture and showed it to Connie.

When we got off the train in Manarola, Connie and I began walking uphill.  Most people headed down where there was more action.  We were looking for a place to eat and thought the cafés thinned out pretty quickly, we kept climbing around each new bend.  Finally, just before the road leveled out and opened to a square with a church, bell tower and overlook, we found a café that offered anchovies. 

It was small with just 3 tables on its front porch, all occupied.  But one couple were obviously finished eating and had just a little wine left in their glasses.  We’d wait.  He ordered another glass of wine.  The second couple eventually had their dishes cleared and things were looking up.  They ordered coffee.  Still, we’d wait.  The third couple ordered dessert.  Still waiting.  It’s Europe.  Diners linger.  But finally, couple number 3 got up to pay and we were able to sit down.      At last, salted anchovies baked on a bed of tomatoes, garlic and potatoes.  Connie had a frittata and the waitress suggested what turned out to be a great bottle of red wine.  We both loved our dishes and we too lingered over the last of the wine and cappuccinos (no one was waiting for our table by then).  Walking back down toward the harbor we agreed that it was the best meal we’d had on our trip.

We walked all the way down to the harbor.  It is naturally protected by large rock formations, but is tiny.  Boats have to be lowered down into the water suspended from a derrick located at street level.  Though not that easy to access, it is considered one of the better places to swim.  The water is deep there.

Between the tunnel to the train station and the harbor, Manarola is much more colorful and vibrant than Riomaggiore was.  On our way back to the train station, we agreed that we liked it second best to Vernazza. 

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Monday, 18 – Vernazza (Cinque Terre)

The first thing we did this morning was video ourselves singing happy birthday to Emilia.  Today is her first birthday as well as my sister Sharon’s birthday.  Then we walked up the main street of Vernazza, under the train station and up around a couple of bends to Il Pirata Belle 5 Terre, a small café with a big personality (the owner) for breakfast.  They have pretty good Wi-Fi so we sent the video off to Pete and Meghan to play for Emilia.

After finishing our breakfast, we started up the trail to Monterosso.  The trail is steep – both up and down – and rugged or really rugged.  Gates at both ends had signs saying the trail was closed because of unsafe conditions (it had rained 3 days ago), but that didn’t stop a lot of people from making the trek.  Like many other hikers, we stopped to take pictures along the way.  Every new view of Vernazza as we ascended the path was worth a photo. As we rounded the first point we were treated to longer views of the coast.  Eventually we would be able to see Vernazza and two of the towns to the south.  The path wound around the hills between the two towns as high as 650’ above the water below and often with a shear drop off on the seaward side.  And finally, thank god, we began seeing Monterosso. 

We also often stepped aside to let others pass.  We’re slow.  But, in doing so, we engaged several couples or groups in conversation.  It was interesting how many of them spoke English as their first language.  The supposedly 2-hour hike took us a little over 3.  And, the promised rain had begun to fall, though lightly, by the time we entered Monterosso.  Both of us agreed that the walk was one of the best things we had done on this vacation.

We stopped for lunch and a coffee at the first café we saw.  I have been hopping to order a plate of anchovies since we got to Cinque Terre and there was an anchovy sandwich on the menu.  But rather than freshly grilled, they were out of a can.  Oh, well. 

Refreshed, we set out to explore.  Monterosso is the northern most of the five towns.  It is the most like a beach resort and would be great in sunny weather.  I packed my swimsuit and goggles anticipating finally getting the opportunity to swim in the Mediterranean.  Not today.  Oh, well.  After checking out most of the old town where we ate, we passed through the tunnel to the new part of town.  More of the same, though newer.  The train station is on that side of town, so we bought tickets and rode the rails for the five minutes it takes to get back to Vernazza. 

Before going back to our room, we walked through town again to pick up some cheese, bread and wine, thinking we’d dine in tonight.  We also walked back up to and stood outside the Pirate Café to send a couple of messages, an email and post a note to Facebook.

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Sunday, 17 – Nice/Vernazza

We managed to walk back to the train station without getting lost.  We had decided to have our petit dejuner of croissant, oj and café au lait at the train station before departing for Cinque Terre.  Waiting on the platform, our train seemed to come too early, but like a lot of other passengers, we boarded anyway.  For a while, we worried we had made a mistake and our complex series of train changes would be screwed up.  We were to change in Ventimiglia, at the Italian border, again in Genoa and once more in Levanto.  But all was well.  We’d just taken the earlier version of the same train.

While boarding the train for Ventimiglia, I helped hand up some suitcases for an elder couple (possibly as old as Connie and I).  It turned out they were from Australia and seated across the aisle from us.  We spent a lot of the journey talking travel and where we were from.  When we changed trains in Genoa, the wife took two suitcases down and back up the stairs of train station and then came back for a third.  I not sure I could have done that.  Because most train and metro stations have stairways, Connie and I decided to reduce what we brought on this trip.  Still, I have the big suitcase and have been schlepping it up and down those ubiquitous stairs.

The trip down the coast was nice, with the Mediterranean nearly always visible on our right, we passed through small towns and pretty countryside.  As we moved along, the mountains moved closer to the coast and eventually we found ourselves going through tunnels both long and frequent.  At Levanto, we changed to the local line and not long after that we arrived in Vernazza. 

The train station is elevated over the town’s main street.  We took the stairs down to street level with no idea of where our hotel was.  Suddenly, a young man said “Rob Rice?” and held out his hand to me.  I was surprised and asked how he knew my name.  He was there to take us to our room.  We’d exchange emails about our approximate arrival time and he’d just picked me out of the crowd.  We were delighted and followed him down the street to a green door with “15” painted on it.  It opened onto a large room with a couple doors and a long, steep staircase leading up to our room.  Or, “accommodation”, as it was called.  He was nice enough to carry our luggage up and left saying be out ten and leave the key on the desk.  And that was the last we saw of him.

If our hotel luck had to run out, we could have done worse.  The room was large with shuttered windows looking out over the main street.  The walls, floor and ceiling had recently been nicely redone, as had the bathroom.  It had a closet and 4 hangers.  It had a desk big enough to hold a laptop and 2 chairs.

The shower is big enough to turn around in, though stooping down for the soap or shampoo – there being no shelf for those kinds of things – was a bit of a challenge.  And while there is an outlet for an electric shaver, there is no hair dryer or any glasses, plastic or otherwise.  We ended up cutting a plastic water bottle in half for a glass.  And then there’s the bed.  The mattress would probably be okay if there were a boxsprings below.  However, being over flat springs gives it a tendency to sag in the middle.  And, the pillows are wimpy.  So, add to that no front desk and no maid service, our temporary home left some things to be desired.  One consolation though was that this arrangement seems to be pretty common in Vernazza, if not other towns in Cinque Terre.

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Nice

Nice is nice.

 

Saturday, 16 – Arles/Nice

We left for Nice in the morning after walking back to the train station.  The trip took most of the day, a lot of which was spent looking out the window at the beautiful cote d’azure.  As with each of our hotels, I put the name and address on the Notes app on my phone to show a potential cab driver and looked up the route if we were going to walk to it.  At Nice, it was just exit the station from the middle door, cross the street and walk straight down toward the Mediterranean.  Turn left at Boulevard Victor Hugo for two blocks and, voila – Hotel La Villa Nice Victor Hugo.  This was a real hotel in a big city.

Once we dumped our bags, we headed down to the waterfront and walked along the strand.  In the 30 mph wind.  We were once again in the tourist zoo and, after some wandering around and a pizza and a beer (wine for Connie) in a café out of the wind, we started walking back to our hotel.  One of the things the French do that drives me crazy is change the names of their streets.  What was Boulevard Victor Hugo had become Boulevard Dubouchage where we intersected it.  Thinking we’d gone too far to the left, we turned right.  We were too tired for being lost. Finally a kindly young lady pointed out on our map where we were.  Eleven blocks later we got to our hotel.

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Friday, 15 – Arles

After breakfast at the hotel, we set out on the Rick Steves walking tour of town.  Arles is where Vincent Van Gogh came and lived during his most productive period, near the end of his life.  Though he painted 200 pictures here, none is on display in Arles.  The Easels are small enameled signs showing a painting and giving some information about it.  They are situated where his easel was while painting the picture.  We took a picture of the easel and then of what he had been looking at as it appears today.  It was great fun.  The Yellow House, where he lived and Gauguin visited, is no longer there – the victim on an errant WW11 bomb – but the building seen in the painting behind the house still exists.  The Jardin d’Ete is pretty much the same though the foliage is obviously different.  The Café at Night also looks the same, though its paint job is gaudy to make it look more like the painting during daylight hours.  It’s in the Place du Forum, with a couple of other large outdoor cafes.  The café is considered a tourist trap and the hipper visitors shun it.

Arles biggest attraction is the giant Roman Arena.  It is still used today for events like their version of bull fighting.  Unlike the Spanish sport (?), in Arles, the young bull enters the arena where young men try to attract its attention and then run to and jump up on the wall before the bull can harm them.  It’s more like a big game of tag than brutal animal cruelty.  The arena can hold 20,000 people on its 30 rows of stone (cold) seats that rise above the floor.  Most of them are now covered by modern steel and wood bleachers.

The outside of the arena is a series of great arches and there are two enclosed arcades at different levels that run around the arena to facilitate egress.  Between the openings to the seats in these arcades are small rooms that were obviously vendor stalls.  Three typical Medieval towers are also part of the arena.  One is open to walk to the top, which, of course, I did.  The view was magnificent.  Beginning in Medieval times and extending into the 1800s, the arches were bricked up and the arena became a walled city of 200 small homes.

Above the arena near the Notre Dame Church and Arles’ highest natural elevation, is another Easel.  It’s supposed to give the visitor a view of the open country that inspired so many of Van Gogh’s painting.  But, the trees have grown up and the town has expanded and there isn’t much open space visible.

Van Gogh was drawn to Arles in 1888 by the sunlight of Provence.  Though there are no Van Gogh museums in Arles, the Easel walks really brought his presence alive for us.  This seemed especially true at the building that was once the hospital where Van Gogh was taken after cutting off his ear.  Now called Espace Van Gogh, it is a square two story building with a large garden courtyard in the center.  While there, he painted the garden.  The tree has grown a bit in the last 128 years.

I think the reason we liked Arles better than Avignon had to do with more than that there were fewer tourists.  The old town of Avignon, enclosed in its wall as it was, sometimes had the feeling of an amusement park, albeit a medieval amusement park.  Arles was just Arles.  And that was good enough.

 

 

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Thursday, 14 –Arles

The wife of the couple that owns the hotel was at the desk in the morning and showed us that an ATM was available right next to the Laundromat.  It wasn’t long before we had all the clean clothes we needed to get us to Florence. 

The other bit of business we wanted to take care of was getting our train tickets for Nice.  Instead of walking back along the river, we went into town and did a little more exploring on our way to the station.  We were also still on the lookout for the kind of bright fabrics that Provence is known for.  We had Meghan’s blue/green decorating plan in mind, but everything we saw had lots of yellow in it.  That applied to ceramics as well.

I believe the center of Arles could fit within the walls of Avignon, though the history of Arles predominance in the region predates Avignon’s.  When Julius Caesar was preparing to attack Marseilles, the city’s ship builders were able to provide him with 12 new ships in just 3 weeks.  After his victory, Caesar named the city a special city of the Roman Republic in gratitude.  His nephew, Octavian, stayed behind in France while Caesar went back to Rome to defeat the Republic and establish the Roman Empire.  Later, when he was Caesar August, Octavian made Arles an official Roman city – which conferred Roman citizenship on its inhabitants – to honor his uncle.  Until the French Revolution, Arles owned more property than any other city in France.

The rest of the day – when we weren’t sitting in a café – we just wandered around.  We decided that we’d do the walking tour on Friday and visit all the Easel sights as well.  It was dark when we started walking back to our hotel after dinner and, since we were near it, we stopped at the Starry Night over the Rhone Easel.  After taking a picture of the Easel, we both took pictures of the river with streetlights and a few stars reflection off of it.

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Wednesday, 13 – Avignon/Arles

The train ride from Avignon to Arles takes about half an hour.  Once there we tried to call a cab, but then we just set out walking to our hotel.  We walked along the upper river walk until we got to the bridge.  Once we crossed the river, our hotel was a block and a half away.  I liked our hotel as soon as I walked into it.  Not only had the whole interior been updated in a way that kept the old world charm, but it was meticulously maintained.  The non English-speaking owner checked us in without too much trouble and seemed very nice.  He was able to show us on the map where a Laundromat was within a block of the hotel.  Our room was large and comfortable.  I had had some apprehension about the place because it was the least expensive hotel of the entire trip.  After getting settled, we walked back across the bridge for our first look at Arles.  We walked through the narrow streets gawking at the buildings and noticed a difference from Avignon immediately, though at that time we really couldn’t define it.

We had planned to do our laundry that day but decided we’d take care of it the next morning.  The shirt I’d been wearing for two days was good for one more.   We grabbed a snack and spent the afternoon wandering aimlessly around, getting our bearings.   After an early dinner, we went back to our room and hit the hay early. 

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A couple of Notes about France

Apparently you can’t graduate from middle school in France unless you can not only smoke a cigarette, but also show that you can roll your own.  Thus begins a lifelong love of Tabac.

The French seem to resist translating anything into English more than any other people.  Menus, road signs, emergency exit instructions – tout seulement en Francais.  I blame it on their resentment that English became the lingua franca of the world.

Now I’ve been around a little.  I’ve lived in North Carolina where complete strangers will greet you on the street as if they’ve known you all your life.  In New York City, as long as you don’t slow down the lunch line at the deli, the servers are perfectly affable.  But I’ve found in France that if one accidentally makes eye contact with someone on the street, a nod or smile will get a sneer and sudden interest in the sidewalk more often that not.  Connie has a little kindlier view.

And now a fun fact: Nimes is another small town in Provence not far from either Arles or Avignon.  It is famous for a certain kind of fabric made there.  In the middle of the nineteenth century, a Jew from Bavaria immigrated to the US and imported a lot of the fabric to make trousers for the gold miners in California.  Thus was Levi Strauss & Company created.  Denim means de Nimes.

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Tuesday, 12 – Avignon

After an early breakfast, we walked up to the bus station (next to the train station) and sat waiting on the Quai 8 bench and waited for the 10:10 A15 bus, clutching our tickets like two little kids going to Disneyland.  Just a 40 minute bus ride separated us from the Pont du Gard!  10:10 came and went.  No bus.  At 10:20 we walked into the ticketing room and found out that the A15 was not operating that day because of a national labor strike.  Other buses had come and gone, but ours was on strike.  C’est la France we were told.  Damn!

After lunch, we decided to hop on the On/Off double decker bus.  It started near our hotel, circled a few blocks in the city and then was out the gate and following the ring road.  The tour crosses the Rhone and goes into Villeneuve lez Avignon, a village opposite Avignon.  We got off at the foot of a hill on top of which was a massive stone fort.  We walked up and into the ticket office/shop and found out that we could have lunch in the Abbey garden, but the fort itself was closed.  It was closed because of the strike.  No standing at the top of the battlements raining arrows down on the HRE soldiers.  Damn, again! Oh well, c’est la France.

We spent the next hour or so wandering through the town, marveling at all the stone buildings rising out of all the stone outcrops in this hilly village.  We got back on the bus thinking we’d complete the tour and just stay on for the next, until we got back across the river again where we would get off and walk along the river front to place were a boat would take us back to the Avignon side.  No dice.  Not because of the strike this time.  When the driver parked the bus, he kicked us all off.  Tour over.

Now some people might think at that point that it just wasn’t our day.  It did cross our minds.  But then we walked down to the rue Teinturiers neighborhood where we sat among locals, sipping beer at our table across from the café and reflecting on our trip.  Next to a creek, shaded by trees, far from touristamania and relaxed.  After dinner at a nearby café, we went home – as we’ve gotten used to calling our hotels – and packed for our trip to Arles tomorrow morning.

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Avignon

Avignon’s greatest claim to fame is as that it was the capital of the Christian church for almost 100 years.  In 1309 Pope Clement moved the Papacy to Avignon.  Six popes later, Gregory 11th, moved back to Rome, beginning the “Great Schism” during which two popes reigned, one in Rome and one in Avignon.  As it was, the city remained the property of the Vatican until the French Revolution. 

The old town is completely surrounded by a wall with towers at the many gates and battlements along its top.  The city was important to the Roman empire, helping guard the roads to Gaul.  When it housed the Papacy, the walls were raised to their current height curtsey of the popes.

You can circumambulate the city easily in two hours or less.  The eastern part of old town is where the majority of the tourist attractions are, including a walking only section with lots of shops.  The rest of town is mostly local residences.

The Saint Benezet Bridge, mentioned above is Avignon’s second greatest claim to fame.

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